|Against the jet||
I don't have nothing to say, i was thrilled with Shane Dorian's speech about his big mamma in Jaws.
Imagine if Babe Ruth told you about his greatest home run. Or Joe Montana described the best pass he'd ever thrown. Imagine, for a moment, that Hugh Hefner recalled the most beautiful woman he'd ever seen. You'd be rapt, wouldn't you? Because if those guys are claiming, "best ever," then it is something truly special. And so when Shane Dorian walks us through the greatest wave he's ever caught in his life, we should set aside 3 minutes and 47 seconds to listen. And watch. In this clip, Dorian gives us the play-by-play of a 50-foot barrel he rode at Jaws a few months ago. The situation: just trying to get a small one in. The drop:perfectly clean — until the giant boil. The claim: not even halfway through. It was a perfect wave that only he could have surfed so perfectly, and we're lucky to have a great share his greatest moment.