Jeff Rowley is a legend.  Read the lines bellow the video and get moved. 

July 2012 - Australia

Jeff Rowley’s Solo Paddle In at ‘Albatross’ during the Australian Winter Superswell

A series of low pressure systems in the Southern Ocean has caused a massive swell to hit the southern coastline of Australia in July 2012, which is now being dubbed the ‘Australian Winter Superswell’.

An outer reef break in Victoria named ‘Albatross’, notorious for the giant birds swooping at surfers, created giant waves with heights exceeding 45 foot (face).

On a day considered dangerous and ‘unsurfable’ for paddle in surfers, Australian Big Wave Surfer, Jeff Rowley paddled out solo with only 9 foot 8 inch surfboard.

It took Rowley thirty minutes to paddle out against rip current to reach ‘Albatross’, which is located approximately 2- 3 kilometres out to sea.

Rowley was the only paddle in surfer attempting to ride the massive wave on that day.

Rowley, one of the extreme big wave surfers who travel the world to chase monster swells at a moments notice, said “I’ve been waiting months for the Southern Ocean to come alive, this might prove to be the Swell of the Year”

“When I saw the weather charts, I was prepared for the biggest and best day of the year in Australian waters”.

“I had to jump off a cliff to get out to the waves, and paddle about 2 kilometres out to sea against crazy rip current - it’s a total adventure”.

On catching the waves, Rowley said “Albatross is a challenging wave, you’re so far out to sea and there is nothing to line up on or get your bearings, just the waves”.

“It took me over two hours to catch my first wave, but it was well worth the wait – that was the wave of my winter so far”.

Rowley’s rides from Albatross will be entered into the Australian Oakley Big Wave Awards and the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards for 2012-13.

Rowley remains in Australia on call for the Big Wave World Tour event at Pico Alto in Peru, currently in its waiting period until 31 August 2012.

As my friend Rogério always said: "Having a band when you are a kid is easy." But the things get hard when you grow up and have children and family. 
For Oli Adams, besides all the difficulty, he lives in UK, another obstacle. Cold water, cold weather, rain, and long driving for surfing. 
That's why he is here in this post. That's why i like him. 

Protest takes you on a journey "From here to there" with 5 of their professional surfers, following them on their journey from their personal here to get there, whether it's a search for solitude and empty breaks, winning contests under pressure or simply searching for the perfect wave in imperfect locations.

Oli Adams is a family man that has chosen to find his there close to home in the UK, where he is determined to find quality waves in less than ideal waters.