During my hollidays, i have my hope in surf renewed. Yes indeed brothers and sisters, savagery still exists in surf. You just need to look to the right direction. Far, very far alway from the advertisements from the magazines.
There are still places where you can find fights, beers, gamblers and broken noses, all together with one of the most respectable waves of the world, G-land.
This year, i spent 12 days in the jungle with my good friend Guilherme, for me "Picula", for the rest, "Thunder".
Guilherme is famous for his aproach in big waves but also his fear of blood. Knowing this, nobody would never imagine him charging the meat shredder reef from Grajagan. Actually, in the beggining (first 5 minutes) he was a little shy in the water, but i knew it wasn't last to much.
As soon as he recognized all the risks and rewards, he began his show. Late take offs, snaps, big turns and barrels, backside kegs without grabbing the rail, because he doesn't know how to grab rail, believe it or not.
He made me proud of his performance and embarrassed for mine, but what can i do? The life is not always made glories.