They call it the Queen of the Coast.
This is a place where you cand find anyone from Dane Reynolds to Bobby Martinez, from Dan Malloy to Tom Currem. Everyone is there besides the crowd. I was up there last fall, and i have an oil stain on my board until today. This is the place where you can learn how to have a threesome in a wave. They call it the Queen of the Coast.
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There are several gems in Indonésia, but G-land is o'concur. Last week we had a big swell in the brazilian south shore. While we saw lots of jet-skies abuse in some beaches, João Jucoski and José Olegário, from Balneário Camboriú went back to basis of big surf. Walk thru the rocks, count the sets, jump in the water, get washed in the white water and charge hard. That's what it's all about. Congratulations for the heroes. Today, in Barra da Tijuca they had a "clouse out" champinoship. I don't know exactly how this fucking contest works. But they wear no jerseys, get close-out bombs and have fun with no jet-skies. For me is perfect. Where do i sign? Big Waves at Punta de Lobos in the beginning of the month 99% of the surfers in the world are not professionals, a lot don't surf that good but they can still have fun and charge. It's not a beautifull style, and you can't see big turns and airs, but as Mark Liddell says, if you surf the way you feel, than your surf is good. Forget the pre-established patterns, just have fun, be happy and do what you want. Rare wave in São Paulo shore. Hope it breaks in this season. Thick and brown tubes, late drops,cold water and New Jersey's best dogs and friends. APRIL weather brings the goods for NJ's finest and their friends. Featuring Mike Gleason, Sam Hammer, Tommy Ihnkin, Clay Pollioni, Bryan Zinski and Blake Jones in a 5 minutes of New Jersey tubes feature.
Se fosse em maresias, tava todo mundo de tow-in. Barra da Tijuca, fechando, grande e pesado: razão de viver. |