The north hemisphere season is on. Shane Dorian is there, leading the evolution on downhill surfing.
Hello babies, i'm back. The vacation was awesome, but i actually need a vacation forever, but now, with my lovely girls.
During my hollidays, i have my hope in surf renewed. Yes indeed brothers and sisters, savagery still exists in surf. You just need to look to the right direction. Far, very far alway from the advertisements from the magazines.
There are still places where you can find fights, beers, gamblers and broken noses, all together with one of the most respectable waves of the world, G-land.
This year, i spent 12 days in the jungle with my good friend Guilherme, for me "Picula", for the rest, "Thunder".
Guilherme is famous for his aproach in big waves but also his fear of blood. Knowing this, nobody would never imagine him charging the meat shredder reef from Grajagan. Actually, in the beggining (first 5 minutes) he was a little shy in the water, but i knew it wasn't last to much.
As soon as he recognized all the risks and rewards, he began his show. Late take offs, snaps, big turns and barrels, backside kegs without grabbing the rail, because he doesn't know how to grab rail, believe it or not.
He made me proud of his performance and embarrassed for mine, but what can i do? The life is not always made glories.
"I was wondering if i surf with a fish or body surf, and there were guys towing."
While some use Jet-skies, others use a piece of foam.
Ryan burch, riding a piece of foam (no stringer/no glass/no fins/unshaped) through Money Trees at G-land, Java.
Jeff Rowley is a legend. Read the lines bellow the video and get moved.
July 2012 - Australia
Jeff Rowley’s Solo Paddle In at ‘Albatross’ during the Australian Winter Superswell
A series of low pressure systems in the Southern Ocean has caused a massive swell to hit the southern coastline of Australia in July 2012, which is now being dubbed the ‘Australian Winter Superswell’.
An outer reef break in Victoria named ‘Albatross’, notorious for the giant birds swooping at surfers, created giant waves with heights exceeding 45 foot (face).
On a day considered dangerous and ‘unsurfable’ for paddle in surfers, Australian Big Wave Surfer, Jeff Rowley paddled out solo with only 9 foot 8 inch surfboard.
It took Rowley thirty minutes to paddle out against rip current to reach ‘Albatross’, which is located approximately 2- 3 kilometres out to sea.
Rowley was the only paddle in surfer attempting to ride the massive wave on that day.
Rowley, one of the extreme big wave surfers who travel the world to chase monster swells at a moments notice, said “I’ve been waiting months for the Southern Ocean to come alive, this might prove to be the Swell of the Year”
“When I saw the weather charts, I was prepared for the biggest and best day of the year in Australian waters”.
“I had to jump off a cliff to get out to the waves, and paddle about 2 kilometres out to sea against crazy rip current - it’s a total adventure”.
On catching the waves, Rowley said “Albatross is a challenging wave, you’re so far out to sea and there is nothing to line up on or get your bearings, just the waves”.
“It took me over two hours to catch my first wave, but it was well worth the wait – that was the wave of my winter so far”.
Rowley’s rides from Albatross will be entered into the Australian Oakley Big Wave Awards and the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards for 2012-13.
Rowley remains in Australia on call for the Big Wave World Tour event at Pico Alto in Peru, currently in its waiting period until 31 August 2012.
As my friend Rogério always said: "Having a band when you are a kid is easy." But the things get hard when you grow up and have children and family.
For Oli Adams, besides all the difficulty, he lives in UK, another obstacle. Cold water, cold weather, rain, and long driving for surfing.
That's why he is here in this post. That's why i like him.
Protest takes you on a journey "From here to there" with 5 of their professional surfers, following them on their journey from their personal here to get there, whether it's a search for solitude and empty breaks, winning contests under pressure or simply searching for the perfect wave in imperfect locations.
Oli Adams is a family man that has chosen to find his there close to home in the UK, where he is determined to find quality waves in less than ideal waters.
What do you prefer, prety pussy or sugar tits? Both? We love a real party, so does Matt Wilkinson. Here, the less important thing is the surf. Enjoy it!
Ano de 1998, abri a revista e ele estava sangrando. Com raça, coragem e principalmente com os braços, dominou Killers...sangrando. Não fugiu da luta e não temeu a morte. Batalhou com Shaun Briley, Taylor Knox e Peter Mel e cravou a bandeira da pátria em todo mundo. Virou meu ídolo numa época em que o tow-in ainda não era prioridade, o que durou pouco. Pena.